Engine Specs
R33 Skyline turbocharger install onto a FJ20ET
-By Tim McDonald.
A R33 GTS-t turbocharger can be adapted to fit onto a FJ20et engine. The R33 turbo offers a more modern and efficient
design, featuring a roller bearing centre. It is larger than the original item. Note that they also feature a ceramic exhaust wheel
which most people recommend not to take about around 14 psi.

I replaced the standard turbo on my FJ20et in my Bluebird with one from a R33 Skyline. The starting point was a mostly stock
engine except it was running ~10 psi boost, 3” dump pipe back exhaust, Supra intercooler.

The result is a much more drivable car, notably:

  •      Much better throttle response, both on and off boost. I attribute this to the better flowing inlet and exhaust piping.
  •      More linear power delivery. It starts producing boost ~ 500 rpm lower in the rev range, and reaches maximum boost
  •      slightly quicker.
  •      A modest increase in power output running the same boost.



    It was quite a lot of work and set me back around $450, but I am happy with the result and can recommend the swap.

    1.      Unbolt the exhaust from the dump pipe and get it out of the way

    2.      Remove original turbo from the engine, along with any associated intake piping and oil lines. I found it easiest to remove the
    exhaust manifold with the turbo.

    3.      Bolt the new turbo onto the exhaust manifold and test fit on car. Note that it only had 10 – 20 mm clearance from the
    engine mount. You may have problems with a different engine mount design.

    4.      The R33 dump pipe was not remotely close to fitting on my car, so I fabricated a new one. To make the new dump pipe;

         a.       Measure up the space available for the dump pipe with the new turbo on the car, and sketched up a design.
         Mine simply needed a 90 deg bend to join up with the existing exhaust.

         b.      Buy a 3” 90 deg mandrel bend for the main dump pipe, a 2” press bend for the wastegate outlet and the
         required flanges. I chose to cut the flange off the turbo end of the R33 dump pipe and reuse it. In hindsight, this
         was not worth the effort.

         c.       Cut the 3” pipe to size. Getting the size right took a few attempts at trimming it to size and test fitting. It also
         required flattening the turbo end of the pipe slightly to fit the turbo flange.

    Figure 1. The turbo flange. Note the shape of the outlet.
    d.      Once the 3” pipe was the correct size, I trimmed the 2” wastegate pipe to size.

         e.       Cut a section out of the 3” pipe where the 2” pipe joins up.

         f.        Tack it together with the welder and test fit again.

         g.       Weld it up. Note: if you are reusing the cast iron flange, you either need to have the right equipment and skills
         to weld it, or find someone who can. I chose the later option.

         h.       Weld in the oxygen sensor fitting. 

         i.         Smooth off the insides, be especially careful to remove any loose weld splatter and burs. 

    Figure 2. The completed dump pipe.
    5.      Take your existing oil line to Pirtek (or similar) and get them to make up a copy with the correct fitting to attach to the new

    6.      The R33 turbo is water cooled, unlike the original, so you need to run new water lines. I T-ed into the water pipes going to
    and from the throttle body as my source of water.

         a.        I used 3/8” rubber heater hose for the water supply. The throttle body pipes are 1/2", so I; used 1/2" tee
         pieces, then ran a short length of 1/2" hose to a 1/2" to 3/8 reducer.

         b.      The turbo has 18 mm banjo fittings for the water. I got some fittings from Pirtek, and got them to crimp them
         on to the 3/8” rubber hose.

    Figure 3. One of the crimp-on banjo fittings for the water line.
    7.      The compressor outlet of the R33 turbo is larger than the FJ 20 and exits the turbo at a different angle, so some new intake
    piping is needed. I took the opportunity to replace most of my piping to and from the intercooler.

         a.       The turbo outlet is ~65 mm, but the remainder of my piping is 2”. I used a rubber PVC pipe joiner to connect
         to the turbo outlet.

         b.      From the joiner I ran a length of 2.25” exhaust pipe.

    Figure 4. The turbo compressor outlet with the rubber joiner attached.
    c.       I then flared the end of a piece of 2” pipe out to approx 2.25” and welded it onto the 2.25” pipe. From this
         point on the remainder of the piping is 2”

         d.      For the bends in the intake I used 2” mandrel bent exhaust pipe. For flexible joins I reused the rubber hose
         from the original intake piping.

    8.      Connect everything up to the turbo. Before connecting anything, make sure that all pipes are clean, and don’t have any
    debris, weld splatter, etc in them. It only takes a small chunk to destroy a turbo.

         a.       The original oil return pipe fits unmodified

         b.      The original air intake pipe fits unmodified

         c.       Fit the new water, oil inlet and compressor outlet piping.

         d.      Fit the new dump pipe. You should use gasket goo, or even better a gasket.

         e.       Install the oxygen sensor.

    Figure 5. The installed turbo.

    9.      Check water and oil levels.

    10.  Disconnect the high tension lead from the coil and turn the engine over using the starter motor to give the oil a chance to
    flow through the turbo. Reconnect it.

    11.  Start it up. Check for:

         a.       Oil and water leaks

         b.      That the water and oil pipe are getting warm (an indication that fluid is flowing).

    Parts list
    R33 Skyline turbocharger     $250

    Exhaust shop parts, total       $100

    Mild steel exhaust pipe:

    1 x       3” 90 deg mandrel bend

    2 x       2” 45 deg mandrel bend

    1 x       2” 90 deg mandrel bend

    1 m      2” straight pipe

    1 x       2” 90 deg press bend

    200 mm 2.25” straight pipe

    1 x       3” mild steel exhaust flange

    1 x       Oxygen sensor weld-in fitting

    Auto parts shop, total            $40

                2 m      3/8” heater hose

                2 x       1/2" plastic T pieces

                2 x       1/2" to 3/8” plastic reducers

                Lots of hose clamps

    Pirtek, total                            $25

                2 x       18mm ID banjo fittings, crimp on

                1 x       Oil line made up, steel piping similar to standard pipe, ~12 mm? banjo fittings

    Bunnings, total                       $12

                1 x       Rubber pipe joiner, ~60 mm ID (for joining PVC pipe)


    More Pics
    The standard FJ20 turbo.

    R33 Skyline turbo

    Engine Specs
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    This site is created by Turbo Creations  -M Drach 2000/2004.

    -Thanks to Tim for this valuable info.